Handwoven yellow cloth, aah. I decided to make it into a tunic first - the 12th century Karelian finds by Dr. Schwindt, more than a century ago, show little decoration in the collar of even the wealthiest male graves. So at least for now I'll use the tunic as it is. I'm quite happy with the pattern, which is an adaptation of typically used tunic pattern, rubakha pattern and historic era Karelian traditional shirt pattern. The front and back pieces are rather narrow, with extra width at the chest achieved with narrow straight gores under the sleeves, and triangular, wide gores starting from the waist. The sleeve pattern in turn uses rectangle and two trapezoids. The trapezoids are from one bisected trapezoid, both are sewn with the longer edge to the rectangular sleeve piece, and the end of the longer one bends nicely to fill in the gap in the seam. Magic of geometry! And no mismatching edges in the sleeve.
The fabric was also ridiculously easy to sew. I'm very pleased with the result if I may say so. Needs some finishing yet, as I wanted to make it ready for Kekri.